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Thursday, November 14, 2013

Highlights from Sao Paulo Fashion Week

With more than 20 shows over five days, Sao Paulo, whose fashion week has just ended, is the 5th most important of these events behind Paris, New York, Milan and London. Through the diversity and quality of the labels present, this proves that Brazil is an expanding country, particularly in terms of fashion. The best known: Alexander Herchcovitch. He presents in Paris but never forgets his motherland. The designer delivers a casual yet sophisticated style, a mark of femininity, playing with layering, the use of capes, transparency and leather. He alone unites all the trends seen on the runway this fashion week. Leather is trending for Ronaldo Fraga. It is his material of preference; ribbed, perforated, cut…leather is either worn as a small touch or dominates an entire look… It also present in the Animale collection, with elaborate designs on bell-bottom trousers worn by Karlie Kloss and on jumpers. Lace, mixed with wool, brings a new sophistication. An urban spirit is found at Colcci, highlighted by sculptural Gisèle Bündchen who sets cameras flashing as she makes her return to the runway. Here, jogging trousers are teamed with high heels! For Juliana Jabour, the sweatshirt takes pride of place, yet treated in a sophisticated manner with graphic inserts, across a grey palette. The world of sport is highlighted by Osklen who, inspired by the next Football World Cup hosted by Brazil, imagines silhouettes linked to this. A palette of bright colours like grass green and red is treated for both men and women. Men’s fashion is also presented, with touches of daring originality from Joao Pimenta with safety pins and animal skin used as capes. Another trend uncovered on the Brazilian runways is shininess, as demonstrated by Patricia Motta, with the use of lamé or rhinestone embroidery. Pedro Lourenço plays with iridescent materials, creating a silhouette constructed around the shift dress and peplum style. The lights of Sao Paulo by night inspire pieces adorned with sequins for Forum. For Triton, sequins are found all over and take on a rock attitude… Femininity derived from a 40s aesthetic with mid-length dresses and skirts and remarkable work on sleeves and volume from Fernanda Yamamoto. We remain in the 40s with Acquastudio with inspirations borrowed from New-look to Christian Dior, with cinched waists and calf-length skirts. From Gloria Coelho, we have a geometric, strict line. Some favour image over style, as is the case for FH for Fause Haten, who unveils his collection on Avenue Paulista. Lino Villaventura pours pots of paint over the faces of models whilst Uma Raquel Davidowicz, like Rick Owens in Paris, uses a dance troupe to demonstrate the elasticity of her clothes. Music from the fashion shows.

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